Day 28: we got the Monet shot!

Clare

The girls started their day with only 10 Euros in their pocket and they had to pay for their hotel room which was 65 Euros. This normally wouldn’t be an issue but Lindsey couldn’t sing as her voice needed to be rested and the weather forecast was for more rain which meant the likelihood of LiLu being able to make much money playing her cello would be limited. However, this is team L and the word ‘pressure’ was banned by LiLu today, as she didn’t want any negative words to be used around Team L , only positive thoughts. LiLu was very happy to take on the job as chief money maker and in a way relished the challenge. Lindsey ecstatic about not having to sing for 24 hours was pleased to hand over the responsibility to her teammate.

These positive thoughts LiLu was encouraging obviously worked, as she had earned the money for their hotel room in less than half an hour after having had their breakfast. LiLu had brazenly started performing in the villages museum grounds and was only moved on by staff after the much needed cash had been made. The tourists had loved LiLu’s playing and paid her handsomely for it.

Once the hotel was paid, LiLu’s next mission was to make more cash to help them pay for a train ticket each to their next location and then money for their next night of accommodation.  It was during this second mission when the downpour of rain came down. The tourists had dispersed and with no one to play to on the streets we could see LiLu was feeling deflated. She asked a local restaurant if she could play to their guests but everyone had already eaten and left. Needing shelter, LiLu ran into the nearest refuge which was in fact the gallery of the artist Christophe Demarez.

As the rain came down, LiLu thanked the artist for letting her shelter in his gallery by playing him a couple of pieces. He was obviously enchanted by her talent which LiLu detected. She explained the challenge to Christophe and then boldly asked him to paint her so that she could add his paintings cost to her teams monatery value. He admitted he would love to paint her but he would need much longer than a week to finish the art work and that time frame would be too long for LiLu’s need. Not wanting to seem disappointed LiLu asked Christophe if there was another way he could help her in this competition. I really don’t think LiLu was expecting more than a few coins in change but once again the kindness of strangers in this small village was revealed. Christophe gave LiLu one of his paintings which featured a cellist. Blown away by this offer, LiLu was in tears.

Having gathered herself together, LiLu and Lindsey headed for Monet’s garden to make the most of the freebie tickets they were given yesterday. Although this tour was meant to be for pleasure, the girls (or as I should say LiLu) weren’t going to miss the opportunity of making some more cash. She decided to risk playing by the famous lily pond to see if any more spare change would be thrown their way. The result was good , they weren’t turfed out of this toursit spot and not only spare change was thrown their way but a fair few number of notes. Enough money was made for them to travel to Rouen in the evening and find a bed for the night.

Day 28: take it to the bridge

Seb

So a vessel weighing over 3000 tonnes and 130 metres in length has just performed a U turn in the centre of the Rhine – probably one of the busiest shipping lanes in the world – just so Team JJ can be let off in the centre of Rotterdam.

We’re all left fairly speechless – and completely overwhelmed by the kindness of Captains, Jan and Johann, and the crew of the Jura.

In total, we’ve been on the vessel about 20 hours and it’s been a serene pleasure from start to finish.

The day begins for most of us at 10am. It was 2am finish the previous night so we’re all very content to bed down in the stern apartment. There are no beds but there is the most comfortable, deep-pile carpet I’ve ever crept over. It’s pure penthouse luxury.

We all sleep extremely well – I think the hum of the engines helps but one really can’t feel the river at all. It’s all very, very calm.

Breakfast is bread and butter eaten on the bridge. This is where we  – along with the four person crew – spend most of the time. It’s completely space age up there and is more akin to a cockpit than anything else. The ship is controlled by the smallest of joysticks and there is a profusion of radars and television screens. It’s incredibly hi-tech.

However, the most remarkable aspect of the bridge is that the entire thing operates on hydraulics. It rises to probably five stories allowing the captain to see over all the containers and then sinks right back down when docked. Come low bridges, of course it’s lowered. Everything is calculated to the most precise levels – we clear one bridge by about 40 centimetres. Jan puts his head out of the sun roof to make sure that we’re going to be ok. He can touch the underside of the bridge.

Lunch is macaroni cheese – and then Team JJ decide that they had better earn their passage. Johann sketches the remaining captain, Jan, (Johann plus car had disembarked several hours previously) and later Janie performs on the bridge  -beautifully.

It’s all very, very special – and there’s an intimacy and real sense of shared understanding when we finally say our goodbyes.

I have to say it’s probably one of the most pleasurable journeys of my entire life.

Day 27: the shipping news

Seb

Team JJ. Sometimes down. But never out.

I’m writing this blog on the Jura.

The Jura? That will be a 130-metre cargo ship currently making its way to Rotterdam along the Rhein. A fifteen hour journey that should see us arrive early tomorrow afternoon.

How did this happen?

The day starts placidly enough. We’re back at the Schube Gallery, watching Johan finish his portrait of Janie. He believes that it’s his strongest work of the trip and is half-hopeful that Crista, the gallery owner, may be interested in picking it up.

The ever-direct Crista has other ideas. “I’ll tell you straightaway, it’s not for me,” she announces as soon as she walks in. “But I like it.”

She does offer a stay at her country house however – and Johan is tempted to take her up on the offer. He’s understandably reluctant to roll up the portrait and would love an opportunity to let it dry properly.

Janie is keen to support her other half, but is also aware that the crew will probably abandon Team JJ if compelled to spend one further night in Dusseldorf. There needs to be a change of tack. And fast.

Then Team JJ hatch a plan. They don’t need money – but they do need to leave Germany and head to the Netherlands. Rotterdam is their goal so why not see if they can trade for a lift down-river?

They make an ambitious start. It’s a trip to the private harbour, in the heart of Dusseldorf’s architectural zone. The harbour-master is not altogether impressed with a rampant Team JJ asking for rides off anybody they can see — and they’re soon ejected. But not before they’ve secured a lift.

Sadly it’s a lift in the wrong direction. South.

It’s a promising start. There must be other opportunities, surely?

A somewhat mollified harbour master advises Team JJ to head down-river to another jetty – a more touristy one. Janie and Johan trek there – it’s actually close to the Schube gallery where they’ve left all their belongings.

They talk to a ticket-seller in one of the boat-kiosks. She doesn’t want to be filmed but she’s happy to make some calls. Yes, Janie and Johan can get a trip. Yes, they can trade for it.

There are only two problems. The first is that they’ve missed the last boat for the day. The second is that the trip is a return-journey and will deposit them exactly where they’ve started out from. Obviously, this makes makes no sense.

But there’s something different about Team JJ this afternoon. They’re not taking “Nein” for an answer. They’re leaving Dusseldorf today. And it’s going to be by boat.

Janie persuades Johan to return to the gallery, collect all their belongings and head to the commercial harbour. It’s a long shot – a very long shot. But Janie wants to go for the “burning bridges” approach. With all their cases and stuff, she believes that Team JJ make for a far more convincing sight.

A taxi is called.

As a film crew, we’re nervous. Large container ports and camera crews don’t constitute the happiest of marriages but our fears are allayed when we arrive to see Janie and the harbour authorities laughing and exchanging jokes.

They love the idea and might just be able to help.

The Harbour master says that there is, in fact, one last boat leaving tonight. He passes across the captain’s telephone number. The captain, Yan, listens and decides that he’d better meet Team JJ in person. He comes over.

And listens to their story. And makes some calls. And thinks. And then says, yes.

Team JJ have caught their boat.